(c) By Jim Fox
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The 15,000 resident elephant seals along the beaches at Ragged Point, Calif. attract crowds of onlookers. (Jim Fox photo) |
The stench can be nauseating. The moans, belches and groans deafening. But the drive is exhilarating.
This is California's Highway 1 along the Pacific Ocean that's one of the most scenic drives in the world.
But there's one beach avoided by sunbathers and surfers.
Even though, crowds form daily at Piedras Blancas to gawk at the
sunbathers - hundreds, often thousands, of elephant seals. They spend
their days lazing in the sun, grunting and covering themselves in sand.
"Don't stand downwind from the seals," was the advice Tom Wolfe,
concierge at the Fairmont San Francisco, offers as we set off on the
drive south from the hotel atop Nob Hill.
At the beach there's an "elephant seal symphony," in particular what
mimics non-stop human belching. It's just the call of the elephant seal.
Add to that gargles, grunts, snorts, bleats, whimpers, squeaks, squeals
and the male elephant seal trumpeting to produce this concerto.